Kiev

Yesterday evening we have arrived in Kiev. We are staying with friends of Lárisa: Inna, Maxim, their son Wowa and Inna’s mother. It is a very nice place to stay, they are very hospitable. We have eaten well, yesterday evening and drank some vodkas.

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Today we have visited Kiev, there are many things to see here. The Lavra, the great patriotic war museum, rodina mat, tchernobyl museum, the funicular, …

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First thing we did is go see the Pechera Lavra. This is a historic Orthodox Christian monastery which has been founded in 1051. Together with the Saint Sophia cathedral it is inscribed as a UNESCO world heritage site. You can follow a tour with a guide or go by yourself. We have done the latter. Inside one of the churches there was a service ongoing.
Underground there are two caves which can be visited. Beware to wear the proper clothes or you will not be able to enter.

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After the caves you end up in the botanical gardens, which are always nice in the late spring. Time to eat some icecream!
Next to the park there is the Afghanistan museum and the National museum of the second world war or Національний музей історії Великої Вітчизняної війни 1941–1945 років. Unfortunately both museums are closed on Mondays! But we saw the many sculptures and the rodina mat. The language is hard in Ukraine as most is in Ukrainian and this is different than russian.

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The next was the Tchernobyl museum. Due to the bad weather I was not able to ride north to the village of Tchernobyl. The other options are then to visit the museum in Kiev or book a touristic tour. The latter has also become quite difficult as you have to book it 15 days in advance. Some of the buildings are also collapsing nowadays which make the risks bigger when visiting the place. We have not booked it; so the museum visit was the last option. Unfortunately is was the monthly closing day today (last Monday of the month). We were not very lucky with the museum visits today.

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We continued the walk through Kiev, wandering towards the Funicular which is a cable car up the hill which gives very nice views on the Dnieper river.

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After this nice view you end up almost automatically at the Saint Sophia Cathedral which is also a must visit. There is a bell tower which gives you one of the best views in the city. The weather was very good, FEW I would say in pilot lingo, so you could see really far. Not sure if this means there is no smog in Kiev. There are a lot of big SUVs riding here. This is logical due to bad roads.

OK time to go for a beer at Maidan on Chresatik!

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The ride from Lvov to Kiev

Today I have ridden the worst road so far. The E40 goes through Lviv and it is really terrible. It is a cobble paved road which is really uneven. In the middle of it there are two tram tracks. Add to that many cars and a lot of rain. You will understand I had to struggle a bit to get through the traffic.

Once out of Lviv the E40 is a one carriage road until Dubno. It was raining cats and dogs, so a very good test for our BMW rally 3 suits. I can already say the waterproof pockets are not 100% waterproof! But the wind and waterproof layer underneath the cordura hold very well. Also my meindl walking boots were soaked, but only on the outside 😉

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We have stopped in Dubno in a small road cafe to warm up, eat some borsch and some local food which was very nice. Then back in the rain direction Rivne. From there the road is a nice dual carriage way. I started to speed up and cruise 160 kph. No problem for the bike. To my surprise the fuel consumption is also very good. She is drinking about 6-6.5 liters / 100km.

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We stopped again when the sun started shining to change the soaked gloves and stretch the legs. All of sudden a very fast biker passed us. He stopped when he saw us, and made a 180. He came to visit us. This was a really nice guy, Sasha from Khmelnytskyi. He gave us some tips about the militsia 😉

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Slava Ukraina, Heroiam slava!

The ride from Krakow to Lvov was quite straightforward. The first 80km or so after Krakow were on a good road. But then all of a sudden we were redirected to a smaller town where the one lane E40 started. The overtaking work started. The power of the GSA was very useable here. All went well, and we only saw a few other bikes on the way.

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For the border crossing we choose for Krakovets. This place is not along E40 but is it the shortest way direction Lvov. It took us about 15 minutes I would say to cross the border here. First we saw a very long line of trucks, I would say about 5km before the border. You don’t need to get in line here. We drove to the beginning of that line where we saw a Polish soldier who gave us a piece of paper and pointed direction for us and . Then we saw a line of about 100m of cars, which we could pass also. So we ended up right away at a border check. First our passports were checked and then the bike’s papers. I must say everything went very smooth!

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Once we have crossed the border we stopped at a gas station to buy some sok and check the gas prices. These were a lot lower than in Europe, about 11 griven for 1 liter of 95 octane of gasoline. In Belgium the same costs about 1.65 EUR. Yihaa 🙂

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Now there was only about 90km to cover towards Lvov. We have booked a hostel over there near the center, the old ukrainian home. When we got into town I had to stop and change the ESA setting to high mountains. The reason was there are so many potholes in the road here. I felt the weight on the back better now, because the front fork gets a lot higher in this setting. Yes we are too heavy, I know, the bike will need a diet in Donetsk.

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We only had a short stay in Lvov, but we have managed to visit a few places. The first stop was the Ivan Franko park and the university named after him; Ivan Franko was a famous western Ukrainian poet, writer and much more. Funny enough the university which he was expelled from was renamed after him, after his dead.

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As we got hungry and thirsty it was time to try the local food and beer. A good place to do this is in the Puzata Chata. There is a very large choice of the local cuisine at a very decent price. The beer was good.

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After this stop we went into the old town to visit some more places like the Armenian church and the rynek. We have heard there is some kind of secret cafe which you cannot see from the street. A soldier is waiting behind the door and you need to tell him the parol to get it. Slava Ukraina, I don’t say more here! You have to wait a bit to get in, but once in, it was very rewarding. The food was very nice, and there were local musicians singings ukrainian songs which you had to sing along 😉
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Krakow

Krakow is the second largest and one of the oldiest cities in Poland. From 1038 to 1569 it was also the capital. Nowadays it is seen by many as the cultural capital of Poland.

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If you are an aviation fan, there is a must see, which is the Polish Aviation museum. This museum has some unique aircrafts in the world like the P11. All the others were destroyed by the Germans during the second World War. There is also a unique Herman Gohring collection. Many russian airplanes like mig, tupolev etc can be seen here. The unfortunate thing I believe is that most of the planes are put outside and not well maintained.

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After this impressing visit to the air museum, there was another museum we wanted to see as were getting deeper and deeper in the second World War history. It was the former factory of Oskar Schindler. He was an ethnic German industrialist, German spy, and member of the Nazi party who is credited with saving the lives of over 1,200 Jews during the Holocaust by employing them in his enamelware and ammunitions factories.

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The museum gives you a very good image of Krakow during the second World War. There is a small section about Herr Schindler as well but in my opinion it is more about Krakow itself. Nevertheless it was interesting stop to make.

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When we came out of the museum, we saw all of a sudden some race cars flying low by. What a nice coincidence, it was the Gumball 3000 guys who were in town 🙂

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We visited some more places like the rynek again, but also the very big and probably most touristic Wawel castle.

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Larisa got hungry so we went for some zapikankas 🙂

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We knew about some free jazz performance in the evening, so we checked it out. Nice to have some music again in the evening. It was a young jazz quartet, they played very well! The night before we had been to a chopin piano recital, which costed 55 zlotis. I am a great fan of Chopin piano music, but strangely I liked the jazz performance better.

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Time for our last night in the mosquito hostel and say goodbye to Krakow. We are riding to Ukraine tomorrow. Exciting to see how fast we can get over the border!

Wroclaw, Auschwitz, Krakow

Today was a rather busy day. We had slept well in the centrum hostel, so there was lots of energy to do things 🙂 As an experienced visitor of Wroclaw, I showed the old town to Larisa. We slept in the centrum hostel in the Świętego Mikołaja which is a very good location to start from. We started the tour at the Saint Elizabeth church. Unfortunately the tower was closed. Actually it is quite simple to see the important things here, just follow the dwarfs. Yes that’s right, if you look well, you will see them at many locations around the stare miasto.

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The rynek and the ratusz are the next place to see. I think the rynek is together with the one in Krakow one of the biggest in Europe.

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After going to the market to buy some food, we wanted to see where the city was founded almost 1000 years ago. This should have been on the Ostrow Tumski, aka cathedral island, which is a small island on the river Oder.

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We went back to the stare miasto to look for more dwarfs and we found them…One of them was sitting behind bars. This was the old prison of Wroclaw.
It is interesting to know that later on, in Kiev in the national war museum, we saw a guillotine which has been used in this museum.

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OK, by now it was getting time to checkout from the hostel and ride to the KL in Auschwitz.

After a nice ride we arrived in the afternoon at camp 1. There are many tourists here. We secured the bike and checked in for a guided tour. This tour takes about 3.5 hours but is a must do if you are interested in this history. We had a very good polish guide. He told us all the facts but made the impact very clear also, and most importantly made you contemplate about it.

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After camp 1, which is the smaller camp, we went to camp 2 Birkenau, which is a really large camp. You can compare it to a small town. Most of the barracks here are gone. Looking from the watchtower you get a very good overview of its size. For me it was one of the most appealing afternoons so far.

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It was getting late, I think we were the last visitors of the camp that day. We didn’t have a sleeping place for the night yet. The plan was normally go to Zakopane from here. But the weather was too bad for the mountains. We knew Krakow is an interesting place to see so the decision was easily made. We have booked a hostel in the center and off we went again. One small detail here, we didn’t take the highway but the local smaller road of about 60km to Krakow. This was a bit more difficult than expected. It was a really small road, with quite some lorries on it, it went up and down with a lot of bends having small stones. The darkness was falling and it was still a bit rainy. Coming from the E40 highway, I had to work a bit here, but we arrived all well in Krakow!

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When you stroll around the rynek in the stare miasto and the streets around, you will hear the music play. It goes from classical to jazz and rock. The first night in Krakow, after our Auschwitz visit, we had dinner in a restaurant called Koko. The kitchen was polish and the prices very economic.

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When we came out and walked along, all of a sudden I was surprised by some nice piano tunes. As a player myself I have a good ear for piano music and the player. It appeared to come from a restaurant so we entered to have a look. We sat at the bar. The restaurant was already closing, it was after 10pm but we stayed until the last guests. The artist was Vitaly, and he was from Kiev. He was a sax and piano player and had a very big repertoire. We really enjoyed listening to him and were invited by him to come back the next evening.

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The day ended very nice in this way and we were pretty tired by now. I was already forward what tomorrow would bring. Cheers everybody…

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The E40 through Germany

Our first stop was made in Bad Hersfeld. When you see Bad in a German town name, it mostly means there is a Kurort or wellness center. But no time for us to visit it. Just stopping for the night and trying the local food and beers.

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The next morning it was pretty cold, at around 15 degrees, we were already wondering how we would get through Tajikistan well. There are mountain passes over 4000m there. It will be in summer. We wore our thermal sports underware, a thin fleece, and bmw rally 3 suite with the windproof layer. The only option I could imagine was getting real thick thermal underware. I had this still from the army, but I left it home because it was quite heavy and voluminous. Let’s see if I made a mistake here.

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We noticed another problem while we were riding through Germany, the connection between the gpsmap 62st and the bike’s battery got lost now and then. Inspecting the cable I saw some rust. I decided to stop over at Touratech OST in Dresden to get a new cable. Unfortunately they didn’t have it, nor was it available on our way in Poland. They would ship it to Donetsk. Let’s see if we get the cable. I did a quick fix but putting some toile isolant around the cable and cleaning it a bit. It seemed to work a lot better now. When it was raining hard I took out the cable and rode on the gps battery.

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In the meantime we reached the Polish border, we are still in the Schengen zone, so no problem to cross this border. In the evening we arrived in Wroclaw and checked in at an aparment in the center. We went for some local food on the rynek and to bed afterwards.

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The route through Europe

This is the route we are planning to follow through Europe until Donetsk.
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As you can see, we mainly follow the E40 highway. The plan is to ride to Donetsk and make it there for the 31st of May as it is my birthday 🙂

But on the road there are some places we would like to visit. Keep tuned and follow us through Europe!

Preparing for the big trip

The moment to leave home and ride eastwards is almost there.

I am now in the process of gathering all necessary items for the trip.

The VISA process, which is quite some work as well is almost finished.
Today I got my Mongolian VISUM. The consul was a friendly guy and all went smooth.

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I am now the proud owner of the following VISA’s: Russia, Kazachstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Mongolia.
Larisa is also proud, she does not need any VISA for this trip!

Physical training

Today feels a bit strange. It is my last day in the Sports Kine Center of the UZ Gent Hospital.

The trip we are undertaking will be strenuous at times. We are travelling on a heavy bike through all sorts of circumstances. The desert in Uzbekistan will be soaking hot. The high mountains in Tajikistan will be freezing cold.

We will not only drive all the time of course. Places will be visited, and if possible some mountain hiking will be done.

Unfortunately I have to deal with two sports injuries at the time. An old problem which is my shoulder instability, is playing up again. A more recent injury is jeopardizing my physical preparation: runners knee.

BUT, I have been training well thanks to Jan at the sportkine. To be honest, my shoulder has improved a lot with the exercises. The knee is a bit tougher, let’s see how it goes!

Atlantic to Pacific overland. A motorcycle trip from Ghent to the east in the summer of 2013…