Boat trip on the river Volga

We had only a short night of sleep. But a new city was waiting for us.

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I had to go to the avtomoika first, fuel up the bike for Kazachstan and check the new tyres.

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We went to see the city Kreml. We could only visit the church as the whole place was under maintenance. The police guard let me park my bike inside which was nice though.

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Gazprom has its main office here and is the biggest employer in the city.

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The next stop was at the Volga river, where I did some fishing 🙂

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We were wondering where we could find caviar so we checked out the fish market. The black beluga caviar was really expensive!

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We got hungry but did not eat fish. It was schaslik time 🙂

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Later in the evening we decided for some romantic times and went on a small river cruise. It was really nice and we watched the sunset. A girl, a beer, what does a guy need more? 🙂

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In the evening it was really crowded at the river and there was a concert. We had diner and got back to the hostel to get ready for the next border crossing. Kazachstan was waiting for us…

The ride with the million mosquitos

Volgograd is a real big city. A local told me it is about 100km in length. Seems unbelievable, but it could be as we spent a long time before getting out of the city. There were a lot of traffic jams as we left Roma around 5pm in the center of the city. The ride out of city was stressful, as we had to slalom between many cars and trucks over 6 lanes. At the end I began to like it and was racing out of the city. Luckily no police 🙂

The heidenau k60 tyres which were newly fitted, felt good and gave confidence. I had the pressure set to 2.3 in the front and 2.8 in the back. Surprisingly the road had a new layer of asphalt and high speeds could be reached.

The plan for the evening was to camp at sunset in the Volga delta before Astrakhan. After about one hour we made a quick stop to buy some supplies in a small village shop. After removing our helmets, we were immediately attached by millions of midges. The people who walked out of the shop wore musquito hats. Standing still was not an option here. So we ran into the shop! The locals said that once a year for one or two weeks in June, the midges awake from the Volga delta and bug the whole area between Volgograd in Astrakhan. Unfortunately we were right in the middle of this period. It seemed like camping would not be an option for today!IMG_0833_resize IMG_0835_resize

We had to speed up as it was getting later. The ride to Astrakhan was about 410km. The visors of the helmets needed to be closed. As we were riding the bike got blacker and blacker by hitting all these little flies. After riding for a few hours, we had to stop because I could not see anymore through the visor. When you slow down or stop, they find you very quickly!

As the sun was setting, and darkness fell, I noticed my lights were not working. It were the flies who had covered the lights as well.

We arrived safely in Astrakhan around 10 pm. We noticed a stinking smell like fish. Larisa thought it was the fish market in Astrakhan. After walking a bit at a gas station, we noticed it was us! The flies covered also the cylinders and they were baked 🙂

In Astrakhan there were less flies. So we though about camping again, but could not find a safe spot. So we started the hunt for a gastinitsa. It was not easy to find a good one. We found one, right next to an avtomoika – this is russian for a carwash. What a luck, I would need that the next day 🙂 We spent some time to clean our gear and bike suits, helmets etc as all was really smelly! Around 4 am we could finally get to bed and slept instantly.

 

Stalingrad and the Mamayev Kurgan

The Mamayev Kurgan is a hill in Volgograd on which there is a memorial complex commemorating the Battle of Stalingrad (August 1942 to February 1943). It is simply impressive but also hitting you in the face with the impact of one of the bloodiest battles in history.

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Before getting to the top you must walk 200 steps. The battle of Stalingrad lasted 200 days, so there is a step to remember each day. On the top there is the Rodina Mat, as we saw in Ukraine in Kiev. On the foot of the monument there is among many the grave of Vasili Zaitsev.

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On top of the hill the views over the city are great. You also note how big this city is. We spoke to a man who lives in the city and he claims it is 100km long along the river. I think this can be true as when we road out of the city later, we needed an hour to get out of it.

In the afternoon we did a little shopping and went to pick up the bike at Roma’s garage. All was done. The new rubber was installed, the TKC’s were underway to Barnaul. I have also asked to clean the wet airfilter and prefilter.

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The bike is now ready for Central Asia. There is only a small ride of about 410km to do to Astrakhan. Easy right? It was already getting a bit later, but the afternoon was so hot, I decided to ride to ride in the evening.

This ride appeared to be a horror movie scenario…

Ride to Stalingrad

Before we left our host family in the morning we went to buy a Russian simcard. The weather was looking great today. So it seemed. We had to cover about 400km. The roads were better than the ones I had seen in Ukraine, so we could ride pretty fast here. When riding through Russia you immediately notice the vastness of the country. Horizons are unlimited here…

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The ride went very well until we felt a very strong wind coming up, and the clouds becoming very black next to us. We were passing a severe storm. Thunder and lightning, we were just a little wet and lucky not to get caught in the middle of it.

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When reaching Volgograd there were some railroads to pass. Most of the wagons had gascontainers on them.

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The first thing we did at Volgograd was make a stop at Roma in Bikecity34. I wanted to check if the Heidenau K60 tyres I had ordered with Denis had arrived. They had arrived, good news! I have asked Roma to send the TKC to Barnaul. Maybe I will use them, maybe I will sell them. Let’s see how the Heidenau’s respond first.

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After visiting Roma, we checked in at the localhostel and started a walk down the Volga river. The river is quite wide and it was a very nice boulevard. Almost like you are at the beach.

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We arrived at the Stalingrad museum around 6pm, luckily today it was open until 9pm so we visited it. At this point we have reached the summum of our second World War quest… The museum was impressive, but almost all is in Russian. The fights and losses in this city have been enormous. In the museum there is also a tribute to the great sniper Vasili Zaitsev. Behind the museum you can see the remainder of the old flour mill building. The city was almost completely destroyed and rebuild.

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We continued the walk now back to the hostel and passed along the planetarium and ever burning flame.

Time for a last beer and hit the sheets… Tomorrow morning we will see the Mamayev Hill Monument.

 

Hello Russia!

Today we have ridden from Donetsk in Ukraine to Donetsk in Russia. What a coincidence. We have said goodbye to Larisa’s family in Donetsk. It was hard to leave our son Erik behind for the second time. But the journey to the East must continue.

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We have ridden towards the E40 again and followed it via Luhansk, to the border station at Izvaryne. We saw a lot of mines under the way. At the border point, first we had to checkout Ukraine, which took about 20 mins. They checked my passport and the bike papers took some more time. Then we had to check in in Russia. For that you need first to fill in the migration card form. Afther that we got another 2 form paper for the vehicle. Oops it was all in Russian 🙂 So it took us some time to get everything filled in correctly. You don’t want to mistakes here as it will give you problems to exit the country again. Meanwhile the sun was going down and a storm was coming. Our plan was to camp for the night.

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We were standing and waiting and the border post to process our vehicle import documents. All of a sudden a man in a van stopped who saw our bikes. His name was Igor and he invited us in his house in Donetsk. What luck! He said to follow him to his house in the nearby town of Donetsk which we did. When we arrived at his house, his son Stas, came out to check the bike. He was a very friendly guy too, and a good painter, he showed us some of his very nice aquarel paintings. We got warm food and some tchai, and a bed offered. What can I say more about the Russian hospitality?! After some time Igor’s wife and daughter arrived and we talked about our journey.

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We didn’t know first but the timezone has changed again, we are now at Moscow time or UTC + 4hours. It was already around midnight, so time to hit the beds. Tomorrow we ride to Volgograd.

 

 

Donetsk

The stay in Donetsk was great. We happy we could spend time with Erik and with the family.

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The bike needed some cleaning and maintenance so we spent some time on that. I have also fixed the TKC80 tyres to the bike. I still had a spare set from a trip to Marokko I did last year. This set will be sent in Volgograd to Barnaul for riding in Mongolia. Erik did a great in cleaning the bike 😉

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We also visited the city. The main feature is of course the very nice Shaktar Donetsk football stadion.

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But there are many nice parks to see as well.

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There is of course the Lenin statue, always be careful when posing here 🙂

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The last night before going on to Volgograd, we were invited by Sergei to play some biljarts. It was a very nice evening. Russian biljart is totally different than american pool or snooker. The holes are quite small which makes it not easy. Maybe it was beginners luck but I beat the Russians, I think they will want revenge when we come back! 😉

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Did I mention they have a bikers bar? Unfortunately there are not a lot of bikers around anymore…

 

 

Bike on a diet and birthday party

Here is the map of the first stage which has been completed.

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Now the first 3000km have been ridden, there were some lessons we have learnt. The first thing I wanted to do is make the load lighter. The plan was also to loose weight off myself but that didn’t work very well as all people we met were so nice and offered us more than enough food and drinks.

But the luggage diet should work. I just took a big bag and started removing items from our luggage which I think were less critical and necessary. The following items will stay in Donetsk: the 2 sheet bags, maps of germany, poland, ukraine, 3 books, 1 pants, 1 tshirt, 1 first aid kit (we had two of them), 19″ inner tyre,… Maybe it does not look much but I think the volume and weight will count.

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The big question now was also should we take our camping gear or not? I think for Central Asia there should be possibilities with the locals. My concern is that after Central Asia, if we get to Mongolia, or even Siberia, that we will need our camping gear. The total weight of it is about 10kg, on our total weight of 450kg, I guess it does not make too much of a difference and we better take it with us.

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By the way today was my birthday 🙂 We had a good party in the evening. Sergei and Vitta had bought me a bottle of vodka and a bottle of Riga black balsam…

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Larisa took 3 pictures of Sergei, Vitta and me, but I am not sure which one is ok to put here, so I put them all 🙂 Then there were some bike pose photos. Always nice…

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Off to Donetsk!

I woke up with a bit of a hangover today, it was very early but the birds were whistling and keeping me awake. So I went out and checked the bike. Every biker will recognize this, I mean the checking of the bike 😉

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Before leaving Poltava, we made a stop at the Poltava Battle History Museum. Note to make here was that the road to the museum was really bad. There were a lot of potholes and you better not drive into them as they are sometimes very deep. The museum gives you the history about the decisive victory in 1709 of Peter I of Russia over the Swedish forces under Field Marshal Carl Gustav Rehnskiöld in one of the battles of the Great Northern War. It was a very important battle which changed the history of Ukraine and Europe.

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The museum was not very big, so in one hour or so, we were already through it. Note, no English guides anymore as the footbal Euro 2012 is finished. So practice your Russian if you want to visit 😉
It was now time to say goodbye to Marina and head out for the final ride of the first stage to Donetsk.

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The ride was another 450km, we followed the E40 direction to Kharkov but left it after 20km direction Dniepropetrovsk. The bike was performing well, I could easily ride 160kph at some stretches, but I had to set ESA to high hills again. The fuel consumption was also quite good so far. The range indicator showed 690 km after fueling it up, but in reality it was about 500km with a consumption of about 6lit/100km.

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The road got very bad at some points. You have to slow down to about 50 – 60 kph if you have to stop to overtake one of the many kamaz trucks. The temperature was also rising again. It went up to about 33 degrees this day. If you want to have some action, you can easily start a race here with some local high end SUV and race along the road overtaking all other cars and trucks. This was good now and then too raise the adrenaline but not for too long if you ask me.

At some point I was feeling like I was riding the old route 66 in the USA, because the roads were so desolate. They were also very long and straight, with several highs and lows. There was also some shining layer on the road because of the sun like the roads gets fluent. It was very nice. After a while I saw why, I looked to our left and saw a whole new highway were the other cars were riding… We decided to stay on this smaller, desolate, nostalgic feeling road. As our camelbags were empty and we got very thirsty we made a stop in a town called Novomoscowsk near Dniepropetrovsk.

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The last stretch was also very bumpy at moments. The ESA fairing did its work here. There was a nice new stretch also, I was a bit naughty and speed up to 180kph. Just checking how the bike performs under this high load of about 450kg and high temperatures. It performed well!

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In the evening we finally arrived in Donetsk. Our family was waiting for us, and we had a nice welcoming evening. It was great to see Erik our son back as well! He was speaking some russian to me already 🙂

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Day 10, poka Kiev, privet galuschki

Unfortunately the time has come to say farewell to this nice and interesting city we have stayed at. Today we will ride to … Well if you know galuschki, you will know where we will sleep for the next night 🙂 First we said goodbye to Inna’s family.             IMG_5039_resize

We decided not to take the ringway around Kiev but follow the GPS and ride through the city as the E40 highway does. It was quite OK, we managed well in the busy Kiev traffic. If you ride through the city, you realise how big it really is. It was getting hot as well. We still had our windstopper layer on in the jackets.

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After we crossed the bridge over the Dniepro river we made a quick stop to take this layer off and open the breather zips. The temperature was about 27 degrees Celsius now.

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The ride of today was not too long, about 400km, and the road was good. We stopped about 100km before our destination at some road cafe. To our surprise they already had the famous galushki’s here. They tasted well!

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In the meantime the temperature had risen to about 30 degrees, and around 5 pm we arrived at Poltava. The city is a bit comparable to the city where I am from I guess regards to size and population. About 300.000 people live here. I wanted to stop over here to visit the Poltava Battle History Museum.The only Ukrainian museum which is one of UNESCO historical museums listed to the world tourist itinerary, and gives you a lot of information about the Great Battle of Poltava.
Today it was too late to visit the museum, but we had contacted Marina, a friend of Larisa before, where we could stay for the night. So we rode to Marina and parked the bike.

It was very nice to get out of the warm bike suite, take a shower and head off for a cold beer! First the girls wanted to see some of the local sites, so I had to wait for the beer 🙂

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Finally we found a good place near the local “White House” to get a local beer. I liked the beer, it was a bit like Hoegaarden but sweeter.

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After some more walking, passing the local Lenin statue, we ended up add a very nice local restaurant called Козачка.

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It was getting a bit late now, so we went back to Marina’s flat and called it a night… Tomorrow we will ride to Donetsk and see Erik and Larisa’s family!

Museums and Kiev

So far we have ridden about 2400km. The GPS says 2279km but with the cable problem we suffered in Germany we lost some miles. Also when its raining I remove the cable from the GPS to prevent water from entering the USB port. There is some rost to see already on the USB power cable. But riding a whole day on batteries is almost not possible.

The temperature has also risen, and my skin has been the victim. Of course not very smart of me to forget there is sunscreen. Since Lvov we have felt the higher temperatures and today was about 25 degrees in Kiev.

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Today we haven the marschrutka from Hostomel to Kiev and from there the red line metro to the station of Dnipro. It is very nice to exit the full wagon and feel the wind and fresh air on the banks of the Dniepr river! We have walked along the river towards the Lavra to drink some holy water and from there to the national war museum. We heard the music playing and the museum was open today! First we made a small stop so see some tanks and planes which were parked outside of the museum.

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There are many interesting museums in Kiev. If you are interested in the second World War, a must see is the Національний музей історії Великої Вітчизняної війни 19411945 років or the national museum of history of the great patriotic war of 1941-1945.

Inside the museum there are 3 floors and the whole history of Ukraine during the second World War is documented here. Almost everything is in Russian, so be prepared.
First the German occupation is shown and the battle of Kiev. Later we saw the battle of Stalingrad which was a turning point. I can really recommend this museum.

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In the afternoon we have a stop at the Chernobyl museum. This is a much smaller museum. It gives a good idea what happened exactly on 26 April 1986 in the nuclear power plant. It struck me that the Soviet Government has kept this event quite secret for the people which had big consequences for a lot of people their health.

Well it is almost time to say goodbye to Wowa, Tamara, Maxim, Inna. Tomorrow we will ride to Poltava…

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Atlantic to Pacific overland. A motorcycle trip from Ghent to the east in the summer of 2013…